I have paddled Alaskas arctic rivers for
more than a quarter-century, in everything from inflatable kayaks to 15-foot
rafts. Rivers in the Brooks Range characteristically begin in the mountains,
running swift and clear in their upper reaches. Most rivers on the south side
of the Brooks Range eventually meet up with the boreal forest and lose their
speed, slowing into gentle meanders that cut through wetlands and stunted
spruce trees. On the north side of the range, rivers twist like a French braid,
spreading into numerous channels, and gradients on some are steep enough to
generate considerable whitewater. The last Ice Age has left its mark in this
country, and even on rivers that seem to be of fairly low gradient, smoothed
glacial erratics and ancient boulders offer up beautiful boulder gardens on
some rivers.
Theres probably no single answer to the questions:
Whats the best boat for the river? Or Whats your
favorite arctic river? Many boats have merits; many rivers are my
favorites
In the summer of 2004, I decided to try out SOARs new
Pioneer on rivers that are traditionally paddled in rafts. I have rafted the
Hulahula many times, so it was with more than a bit of joy that I pulled
together a team of 6 experienced paddlers for our test-drive with
the Pioneers. These canoes are big! I dont know if I read it, or someone
said it, but these boats are like SOAR 16s on steroids. You cannot flip them.
They are so stable that you could stand up and do a few West Coast swing dance
moves while moving downriver. I swear you could set up a tripod in one!
We loaded them up with food, gear, and ourselves, and they still
floated high in the water. I think it would be hard to overload this boat. In
the shallows, we dragged them across rocks and gravel, and they never showed
any wear. In the Hulahulas Class III water, the waves splashed up all
around us, but I dont even remember getting wet. The hull design seems to
deflect the waves.
The Hulahula melts out in early June, cutting a channel or two
through extensive shelves of ice that fill the river throughout the winter.
This aufeis, or overflow ice, can be a real hazard. Sometimes the
channels dont break through and the river goes UNDER the ice. People have
been dragged under, losing their boats, gear, and sometimes, their lives. By
mid-June, there are usually decent channels running down the river, but there
is still plenty of ice. Often, going downriver, wed watch huge chunks of
ice break from the shelves, similar to an iceberg calving from a glacier. Big
surge waves radiate out, and you aim your bow into the wave to maintain
stability.
We loved the boats for this trip. They were easy to paddle, easy
to maneuver, and manageable in the wind. The Hulahula has a swift current
throughout most of its journey. I think the Pioneer might feel like a barge on
a slower river, but its as stable as one. Its a bit much for a solo
paddler, even with a long kayak paddle. I think its best used with 2,
paddling canoe-style.
We tried the boat on a couple more Arctic rivers, and gave them
a good run through the biggest boulder garden in northern Alaska. With some
pushing and yanking, we got through it; the only casualty was a brief swim by
one paddler. The canoe hit a rock, sending him into an aerial acrobatic until
he hit 38 degree water.
The main thing I dont like about the Pioneers is their
weight. Its a hefty load for me to lift by myself. For this reason,
Ill probably switch to the SOAR 16s, with their slightly smaller tube
diameter. The other feature that could be improved is the seats. We all decided
that it would be better to make seats that are long enough to sit on top of the
tops on the sides of the boat. A couple holes set in from the ends of the seats
would be used to lash the seats in. Youd be able to sit higher when you
want, and you would be able to move all the way out to the edge of the tube for
deep vertical paddle strokes.
The Pioneers worked great; it was stable, responsive, and fun to
paddle. Its roomy, too; we could have carried a month of food, and still
had room to stretch out! I cant wait to take them on another river.
Karen Jettmar
Karen is the author of The Alaska River Guide: Canoeing,
Kayaking and Rafting in the Last Frontier. She runs backpacking, sea
kayaking, and river expeditions in the Far North with her company, Equinox
Expeditions.